Welcome. I had planned to turn my bullet-point travel log into a longer narrative, but I’m focused on bigger projects that will offer far more value to the Storied Recipe community than this short trip recap.
If you have any questions about the trip, feel free to email me at [email protected].
December 13th – 14th: One Very Long Day from Baltimore to Schwerin, Germany
- My brother drove us to the airport while I finished up last-minute chores at home.
- I rarely sleep on planes, but I always rest with my eyes closed and skip in-flight entertainment to help my nervous system stay calm.
- We arrived exhausted but excited to see Jack. I carry a small travel toothbrush, paste, and face cleanser in my backpack—enough to freshen up and feel more awake.
- After a long drive through rain and gray skies we reached Schwerin and experienced our first Christmas market, which felt more magical than I expected.
- We searched for a life-sized Weihnachtspyramide at the request of my sister-in-law and were delighted to find one.
- The castle in Schwerin surprised us with its size and presence. For a few euros we entered the courtyard and shared a cup of steaming punch.
- By nightfall we were ready to collapse into bed—John and I on a pull-out sofa in our Airbnb.
Sunday, 12/15: Old Town Lübeck → Flensburg
- We slept in and enjoyed breakfast from an Arab grocery store we’d visited the night before, followed by much-appreciated showers.
- Lübeck’s Old Town sits on an island surrounded by water and is one of Germany’s most remarkable historic centers. It’s also famous for marzipan.
- The Christmas market opened at 11 a.m., and we dove right in. The church I hoped to visit, St. Mary’s, was closed, but its wartime history and remnants, including the crashed bells left where they fell, were moving to learn about.
- We walked the island’s harbor and accepted an invitation to tour a ship, talking with the sailor who’d recently sailed from Lübeck to Scotland’s capital in just a few days.
- Of course we bought marzipan. European confectionery shops have a charm that photos rarely capture.
- We sampled potato fritters at more market stalls and later attended a Christmas concert at a beautiful church. The performance wasn’t what we expected, so we ended the night laughing, napping on pews, and sharing a cozy dinner at a local döner shop.
Monday, 12/16: The Lego House in Billund, Denmark
- We stocked up on groceries in Germany—fresh fruit, bread, cheese, salami, and spreads—because prices were reasonable.
- The big surprise was the Lego House in Billund. The museum was interactive, creative, and inspiring—relaxed fun for everyone.
Still 12/16: Christmas Market in Viborg
- We drove to Viborg, one of Denmark’s older towns, and explored its Christmas market—John’s favorite of the trip.
- Danish markets felt smaller but more thoughtfully designed than many German ones.
- We sampled duck sandwiches and a decadent dessert made with donut, chocolate, gingerbread, and marshmallow.
- The tasteful display of lights throughout the town felt far beyond what we see at home—elegant and festive.
Tuesday 12/17: The Five Halder Trail in Viborg
- The Five Halder Trail offered a beautiful morning walk. A five-minute plan turned into three hours of climbing, exploring, taking photos, and lingering by marshes and lakes—the first sun we’d seen since leaving the U.S.
- Denmark’s landscape is full of islands, lakes, streams, and rivers; the countryside’s water and marshlands invited us to slow down and savor the quiet.
Still Tuesday, 12/17: Viborg Cathedral & Old Town
- We visited Viborg Cathedral and appreciated the generous access to areas usually off-limits—altars, chapels, and burial sites—learning more about the town as we went.
- We drove north to Skagen, a tiny town at Denmark’s northern tip. With few open venues on a weeknight, we had dinner at the only restaurant available. It was a warm, Scandinavian-style spot, tastefully decorated for the season.
Wednesday 12/18: Grenen, Where the North Sea Meets the Baltic
- We woke to wind and heavy rain after a night in a tiny cabin. The day felt bleak at first, and we worried about our outdoor plans.
- On arrival to the tip, the weather and wind were intense, but stepping out and walking the shoreline shifted everything. The landscape felt honest and powerful.
- At the tip we watched the meeting of two seas, spotted a seal, and saw John and Jack bravely wade in until they had a foot in each sea.
- Despite the cold, we lingered; the place had an ineffable quality that made it hard to leave.
Still Wednesday, 12/18: Trodelskoven (Troll Forest)
- We hesitated to hike after the cold morning, but a family reminder—“we never regret a hike”—was spot on.
- The forest felt genuinely storybook, with mossy paths and shapes that could easily suggest characters stepping out of the trees.
- That evening we drove to Odense and stopped in Aarhus. A rainy market and the need for comfort food led us, unashamed, to McDonald’s for a quick meal and hot chocolate.
- Aarhus surprised me: canals, bridges, and elegant lighting made it feel bright and alive despite the weather. It became one of my favorite towns on the trip.
Thursday 12/19: Hans Christian Andersen Museum
- Dark, rainy mornings in Denmark can feel heavier than back home, but I was eager for museum visits.
- The Hans Christian Andersen Museum was subtler and more thoughtful than I expected—minimal, spacious, and clever, with a Scandinavian aesthetic that revealed new perspectives on Andersen’s work.
- The audio guide integrated with the exhibits in a seamless, theatrical way, enhancing both narration and atmosphere.
- The museum balanced empathy and critique, offering nuanced interpretations alongside interactive displays tied to Andersen’s most famous tales.
Still Thursday, 12/19: Roskilde Cathedral and Viking Museum
- After a drive to Roskilde, the cathedral was one of the most striking manmade spaces we encountered—so warm and intimate despite soaring ceilings.
- The cathedral doubles as a royal tomb, filled with intricately carved caskets and sepulchres. The sense of history underfoot was overwhelming.
- The Viking Museum offered a reminder of Viking influence on Europe, and I left wanting to learn more about that heritage.
- We drove on to Copenhagen, rested briefly, then returned to a vibrant Christmas market where I enjoyed an excellent burger and finally bought the embossed rolling pins I’d admired for years.
Friday 12/20: Kronsborg Castle
- Kronsborg Castle turned into one of the most memorable days of the trip. The architecture—archways within archways—and the sea breeze made it feel cinematic.
- The castle held an emotional resonance for me, especially after listening to Hamlet in the car. With wind and winter light, passages of the play came alive against the castle’s atmosphere.
- What surprised me was the level of access: we could explore nearly every room, tower, and coastal perimeter. The family stayed for hours, happily discovering details throughout the day.
Still Friday, 12/20: Tivoli Gardens
Back in Copenhagen we visited Tivoli Gardens—the Christmas market to end all markets—before driving Jack to the airport. The lights, stalls, and atmosphere were the perfect festive finale for the day.
Saturday 12/21: Travel Day with a Beach Stop
- More rain and gray skies, but another reminder that getting outside is always worthwhile.
Still Saturday, 12/21: Hamburg Christmas Markets
- Hamburg hosts many markets; we visited at least two and saved most of our shopping for this night.
- We found perfect gifts and lingered later than planned before returning to our cozy Airbnb for much-needed sleep.
Sunday 12/22
- We drove to Leipzig to visit Jack at university. It was a quieter day focused on personal connections.
- We met his flatmates, toured his apartment, and attended his church’s carol service, where he sang. Rehearsal photos show how packed the church was for the performance.
- It was meaningful to meet people who matter to him and to reconnect with friends from previous trips.
- Back at the Airbnb, everyone was hungry; I had a rare quiet moment while others dashed out for a late snack.
Monday 12/23 – Flight Home
A typical travel day with highs and lows. We appreciate efficient airports and are grateful to my brother Peter for the ride and the last-minute stop at a favorite kebab place before it closed.